This guide is an addition to the Comp-tac guide, as frankly I don’t feel it goes into too many details on how to attach the International to the QLS fork.
You will need the following:
- Your Comp-tac the International Holster disassembled
- Three Comp-tac T-nuts
- Three Safariland screws 0.495″ long
- Safariland QLS fork
- Hex drivers for both Safariland and Comp-tac
- #10 drill bit
The last item is probably the most important as the holes on the Comp-tac holster that they don’t normally use for their attachment methods come undersized. Comp-tac has claimed that you can pull the nut through with a screw, but I haven’t been successful doing that. Even after drilling the hole out with the #10 drill bit often I still have to pull the nut through. No fractional size will work, the #10 is just the right size in that it is slightly undersized. The drill bit is available on Amazon or other shops they can be had for a few dollars, or just buy a full set as it is useful to have them around for more precise jobs.
The newest design of the International has slots for the top screw holes, which gives you have two ways of attaching the QLS fork. The two ways are highlighted in yellow and purple. For older holsters you just have the regular top holes, you can only use the attachment holes highlighted in purple. For the newer holsters the slots don’t need to be drilled out, just the single holes. I found that there is very little difference between the attachments methods, the yellow holes results in a very slightly higher resulting position of the QLS fork on the holster, but not high enough that it is noticeable on the draw.
I found it easier to remove the adjustment screws so I can get my hand more easily into the holster, but beyond that it is pretty easy just try to get the nuts in the holes. If it is a little too tight I use Comp-tac suggestion to use the screw to pull it into the hole a little. For the slots you want to make sure that the nuts are in the inner edges of the slots. And then using my hand to make sure that the nuts aren’t pushed out I tighten each one a bit, making sure that it is still straight.
After that you need to put the adjustment screws back in. To do that you need to hold the holster together squishing the rubber adjustment posts. You will need to adjust the tension on the holster again but you are ready to give it a test at the range, and loctite the screws if you are happy with everything.